Our first few weeks
in we've been to Fontainebleau and now in Orpierre.
We decided to break
up the long journey down to Orpierre by spending a few days bouldering in
Fontainebleau.
Robin and I have never been to Font before and
to honest we have never
boulder outside but we have a bouldering mat so why not use it.
boulder outside but we have a bouldering mat so why not use it.
We parked up in a forest campsites nearby a small village.
With it being still mid April the night was
very cool.
After an morning
trip to the boulangerie for a baguette
for lunch we headed for Trois Pignons bouldering area.
With a short walk
through the forest and the boulders start to appear.
It's a little bit
surreal the first time seeing these boulder's in the forest surrounded by sand.
My climbing was
rather tentative, still a little bit weary of falling on my Achilles after my
incident even with our DMM bouldering mat.
We really enjoyed
the areas of 91.1 and 95.2 best of all.
Good variety of
grades and and a nicer environment.
We found the quaint
village of Barbizon a perfect place to peacefully camp for the night.
Surrounded by
boulders at 95.2
Me checking our
route back.
Barbizon
After a few days
bouldering in Font we decided to drive to our next destination Orpierre in
Haute Provence.
Leaving behind the
flat fields for high winding roads and orchards of apple trees.
Orpierre has a
dramatic backdrop of rock and a tiny village.
The view of the
village of Orpierre.
We eased ourselves
into route climbing and spent a few days tuning into the Limestone rock, sharp
edges, water pockets and sometimes a little polished.
We spent one night
at the campsite but the rest in the parking by the route up to the crag. The
only downside of this was the constant bells from the chapel every 5mins to the
hour and on the hour all night long.
Finally having
enough of bells we drove to Buis-les-Baronnies. A much bigger and busier town
than Orpierre.
Our rest spot for a
few nights.
Climbing in Baume Rousse the frist day, so
lovely. Great routes, friendly bolted and beautiful views. I felt compelled to
start leading again. Test out my nerve and my Achilles tendon.
Next day expecting
some more leading but was shut down at Ubrieux. Slight knock to the confidence
but tomorrow is a new day.
Making ourselves at home in Buis -les- Baronnies.
Another beautiful
sunny day and a perfect day for some multi-pitch on St Julien.
We decide that La
Grotte looks fun. You have to small tunnel before reaching the belay.
Robin has be
cool about doing all the leading and
steps up for this. The pitches are 5, 6a, 5 so should be fine.
Robin makes quick
work of the first pitch and I set off with a small day pack with water plus
lunch.
I get to the tunnel
and soon find it's a tight squeeze... After removing the pack I manage to fit
myself through. I could see how much Robin enjoyed the second pitch a little
sustained, a little technical and a small traverse he was flowing through it nicely.
The 3rd pitch was on a slab which allows you to see on either side of St
Julien.
After we abseil down
and have lunch we debate whether or not to climb some more.
The day is still
early so we go with the latter ( rest day tomorrow).
Robin wants to
challenge himself with a single pitch 6b of Equinoxe.
Although he can make
all the moves the bolts are really spaced apart and after spending a few days
with friendly bolting its one for a good nerves.
My attempt on second
did have a few moments of searching for holds.
A few more days in Buis-les-Baronnies, enjoying the good weather and some great climbing.
Back to Baume Rousse crag Robin and I bump into Gaz Perry and Adrian Berry with a group of British clients.
After a brief chat with them Adrian talks to Robin about an achievable 7a route with big holds.
The trouble is that it's a very overhanging start and is a bit polished on the footwork, but Robin gives it a go
Robin on Aband Flis de Crapaud.
Back to the belay.
Now a few weeks in our adventure is going well, this has been a great location to be at and so many crags to explore.
Another multi-pitch on St Julien, we pick another easy grade route it's all about the fun. We see Adrian and Gaz with the same clients. With so many great routes on St Julien it's easy to see why they're also at the same place.
Time for a small change, Robin heard about Malaucene a small crag near Mount Ventoux famous for the legg of the tour de France.
Again we bump into Adrian and Gaz, who are busy with the same clients giving them beta on some routes.
I soon find Malaucene is not the place for me. Large bulges, out of reach holds and overhanging.
After a couple of routes I'm done!
Robin does much better even doing a couple of 7a's.
Next we go to Combe Obscure (slabs) and the following day a small multi-pitch on the lovely Chaine du Clapis.
While looking for our route we see a veteran climber perhaps in her late 60's or early 70's seconding a route.
There's so much choice and decide on Vistemboir and Viva la Vida.
Me on a multi-pitch
Retro Citroen 2CV
Next on Robin's tick list is St Leger, the grades are to difficult for me so I'm just belaying.
The first route doesn't go as planned. Robin has to bail due to getting stung by something, he wasn't clear about what they were and wasn't hanging around to find out.
The next few routes were challenging
Robin at the end of the day at St Leger.
Me at the end of the day at St Leger.
Life in campervan Stan has us reveling in the small pleasure such as a stunning view for our evening, for me seeing the starry night sky, listening to the early morning birds and exploring new places.
Our first month has us defining our roles, supporting each other and becoming a team.
A few more days in Buis-les-Baronnies, enjoying the good weather and some great climbing.
Back to Baume Rousse crag Robin and I bump into Gaz Perry and Adrian Berry with a group of British clients.
After a brief chat with them Adrian talks to Robin about an achievable 7a route with big holds.
The trouble is that it's a very overhanging start and is a bit polished on the footwork, but Robin gives it a go
Robin on Aband Flis de Crapaud.
Back to the belay.
Now a few weeks in our adventure is going well, this has been a great location to be at and so many crags to explore.
Another multi-pitch on St Julien, we pick another easy grade route it's all about the fun. We see Adrian and Gaz with the same clients. With so many great routes on St Julien it's easy to see why they're also at the same place.
Time for a small change, Robin heard about Malaucene a small crag near Mount Ventoux famous for the legg of the tour de France.
Again we bump into Adrian and Gaz, who are busy with the same clients giving them beta on some routes.
I soon find Malaucene is not the place for me. Large bulges, out of reach holds and overhanging.
After a couple of routes I'm done!
Robin does much better even doing a couple of 7a's.
Next we go to Combe Obscure (slabs) and the following day a small multi-pitch on the lovely Chaine du Clapis.
While looking for our route we see a veteran climber perhaps in her late 60's or early 70's seconding a route.
There's so much choice and decide on Vistemboir and Viva la Vida.
Me on a multi-pitch
Retro Citroen 2CV
Next on Robin's tick list is St Leger, the grades are to difficult for me so I'm just belaying.
The first route doesn't go as planned. Robin has to bail due to getting stung by something, he wasn't clear about what they were and wasn't hanging around to find out.
The next few routes were challenging
Robin at the end of the day at St Leger.
Me at the end of the day at St Leger.
Life in campervan Stan has us reveling in the small pleasure such as a stunning view for our evening, for me seeing the starry night sky, listening to the early morning birds and exploring new places.
Our first month has us defining our roles, supporting each other and becoming a team.
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